As a dermal clinician I am regularly asked by my clients how to achieve youthful and healthy- looking skin.
Ageing Skin and the Natural Moisturising Factor (“NMF”)
Many have tried cosmetic injectables to help minimize wrinkles, but although in many cases the wrinkles have gone, skin still looks dull, tired, blotchy, which of course is instantly ageing. Cosmetic injectables are a great temporary solution for wrinkles, but they do nothing to encourage your skin itself to look younger.
Are cosmetic injectables really the only answer for ageing skin?
Youthful skin is fresh, even toned and plump. Think about it, if you stand two people side by side, one has dry, dull, blotchy skin and no wrinkles, and the other has fresh, radiant, even toned, plump skin with some fine lines and wrinkles, which one appears older? Remember Wrinkles are only one signs of aging skin and there are many other skin conditions that can make a person look older than they actually are.
One of the first sign of aging is often caused by dehydration. This is where the skin has lost too much of its natural water reserves looks dull and feels tight and dry. This causes fine lines and crepey (thin) skin and impairment with the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF). This is a crucial factor in ageing skin. The NMF is part of the natural chemistry of skin and essential for optimum skin health. Amino Acids, ceramides and hyaluronic acid make up the NMF. Once excreted these hydrating substances coat and protect the skin cells from drying out. The NMF binds with natural skin lipids to create a natural moisturiser for the skin.
This natural moisturizer sits in-between the cells, holding the skin together and preventing excess moisture loss. Referred to as the “barrier function” it is the body's first line of defence against moisture loss and infection. When it is missing or incomplete, and the skin is not producing enough of these substances to keep the skin soft and supple, symptoms such as mild dehydration, tightness, dryness, skin sensitivities, flaking, irritations, and itching can be experienced. Untreated, this can result in premature aging, lines and wrinkles, heightened sensitivities and predisposition to allergies, eczema and dermatitis.
Combining the correct dermal therapies and complementary skin care formulations is vitally important to restoring a healthy barrier function. Advances in cosmeceutical skin care now provide biomimetic formulations which naturally mimic the skins NMF. Derived mainly from the botanical kingdom, when clinically formulated, precisely mimic the skin’s natural chemistry. Cheaper, older-style formulas sit only on the skin’s surface. Biomimetic formulations sit within the skin and do a lot more than just moisturize.
DMK Signature Enzyme Therapy
DMK is the only company in the world to utilise the beneficial effects of transfer messenger enzymes.
Enzymes are living substances that regulate health and work with certain minerals in the body to form a natural system of antioxidants that fight corrosive free radicals. Properly formulated, they can remove dead protein, toxins and other effluvia from the epidermis using a process called ‘reverse osmosis’.
Enzyme Therapy for face - restores skin to its peak condition
Where some cosmetic facial treatments may only act on the surface of the skin, DMK Enzyme Treatments work with the skin. The enzymes strengthen the structural integrity of the skin to create a healthy environment for cells to live and thrive in.
Transfer Messenger Enzyme Therapy successfully manages skin conditions and problem skins such as: Ageing skin - including prematurely aged skins affected by environmental issues, Acne; Rosacea and other inflammatory skin conditions such as Psoriasis and Eczema.
Enzyme Therapy exercises facial muscles and works to leave the skin feeling firm.
Enzyme Therapy for body – revise and refresh
This deep exfoliating, strengthening and firming Enzyme Treatment is specifically designed for the body and for those people who want to see and feel results. Body Enzyme Therapy contours while encouraging the skin to perform better. It increases circulation and lymphatic drainage and strengthens and firms skin.
Body Enzyme Therapy is excellent for cellulite, fluid retention, dry skin, poor circulation, as well as the treatment of ingrown hairs, pigmentation, stretch marks and acne on the body.
The DMK Signature Enzyme Therapy is a proven and well established protocol.
See more in the video below:
As a rule, we take a topical approach to skin conditions, however, mounting evidence shows healthy skin on the outside starts from the inside. In short, if you want to heal your skin, you must heal your gut.
Gut health is a key aspect of skin health. Research shows poor gut health contributes to premature ageing, acne and rosacea. It also influences our ability to recover from sun damage, eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis, while also impacting on mental health, weight, moods and other health disorders. Common signs of poor gut health are loose, unformed stools and constipation. Or perhaps you feel gassy, foggy headed and suffer from mood swings.
Many diet and lifestyle-related factors can impact on a healthy gut. A high intake of alcohol or a high intake of fat from a poor diet are common examples. High stress levels impact cortisol levels and some medications can also affect gut health. Unfortunately, the gut doesn't like processed, fatty, sugary foods and our increasingly high fat, high carb diets, which involve the regular consumption of highly processed foods (the now standard Western diet, are a big contributor to poor digestive and gut health.
Vegetables and plant-based foods provide essential nutrients to help maintain good gut health. Fibre provides a huge variety of compounds and nutrients so try eating more whole grains, fruit, vegetables, nuts and legumes. Plus, when we think of gut health, probiotics come to mind. These are live bacteria that can be found in certain foods, particularly in yoghurt and fermented foods, such as miso, sauerkraut and kimchi, supplements can also help. However, prebiotics, a type of non-digestible fibre, are just as important acting as a fertiliser for the good bacteria in the gut. Both types are essential for balance.
In the future, I believe the skin professional must examine the link between the gut, healthy skin and ageing to achieve the best outcomes for clients. It’s essential to arm ourselves with the knowledge and the tools to achieve that healthy look from the inside out.
Skin and the Ageing Process
It’s only natural that our skin will age over time and there are many factors that influence this process. Some of these we have no control over but others we can influence.
Put simply, there are two distinct types of ageing.
1. Intrinsic (internal) ageing
A natural process that typically begins in our mid-20s, our genes will control how the process unfolds and how the layers of the skin are affected. As cellular processes decline, the epidermis thins and Vitamin D stores reduce. Skin becomes paler and more prone to sunburn and other skin issues. The dermis becomes weaker, leading to sagging and wrinkles and, finally, changes in circulating male and female sexual hormones alter distinctive physical and facial features.
2. Extrinsic (external) ageing
This type of ageing is premature and is caused by environmental and lifestyle choices. Primarily caused by sun exposure, other external factors include our facial expressions, sleeping positions, gravity and smoking.
Even short, daily exposure rates to sunlight and UV radiation can cause changes to the skin. Typical changes commonly associated with sun exposure include deep wrinkles, sallowness, pigmentation, vessel damage, discoloration and skin lesions. A breakdown and decrease in collagen, caused by UV radiation absorbed by skin tissue is one of the main reasons behind photo-ageing.
Repetitive facial movements also lead to fine lines and wrinkles. Constant facial muscle movements form a groove beneath the surface and, as the skin ages, it loses elasticity and stops springing back to its line-free state. Today, we see more facial lines in young people due to regular frowning at computer screens and mobiles.
With the effects of gravity working to pull our body towards the center of the earth, changes related to gravity become more pronounced as we age. As our skin loses its elasticity, facial features become more pronounced which, in turn, influence the appearance of our skin. Even resting our face on the pillow each night in the same way leads to wrinkles as sleep lines become permanently etched.
Finally, we all know the dangers of smoking but did you know that as well as causing age lines, deep wrinkles, skin discoloration and damaged facial vessels, by the age of 70, a 30-a-day smoker can age up to 14 years.
Caring of Ageing Skin
We recommend wearing sunblock, particularly in summer, and avoiding outdoor activities in intense heat. Avoid smoking and avoid repetitive facial expressions where possible. Eat a healthy, well-balanced diet with plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables and avoid alcohol. Participate in moderate exercise, regularly cleanse skin and moisturize every day.
Reversing Premature Ageing
Lifestyle changes, together with tailored dermal therapy procedures, can be extremely effective in this area. Talk to me, your local skin health technician about IPL and laser treatments along with skin tightening, skin needling, chemical peels and transfer messenger enzyme therapy. Muscle relaxant injections can reduce deep furrows and wrinkling, and cosmetic surgery can remove redundant sagging skin.
Research shows that a minimum amount of sunlight exposure is needed most days to function properly. Like a plant needs sunlight to grow and thrive, the human body needs sunlight for proper cellular functioning.
Though excessive sunlight exposure can cause ageing and skin cancers there is scientific evidence that shows daily sunlight exposure is good for human health.
This article highlights known dangers of the sun and also its benefits, some widely known and yet some not. From a skin health professional point of view it may give some food for thought about how we give advice to patients about the sun, its dangers, protection from it, and indeed its benefits.
The Value Of Sunlight
Ultra violet radiation (SUNLIGHT) immediately causes people to think of cancer, cataracts, aging, wrinkles. Science is now saying that wearing sunglasses may severely weaken the body’s defences. There are strong indications that sunlight through the eyes stimulates the immune system. There is no question that UV light in large amounts is harmful, but in trace amounts as in natural sunlight it acts as a beneficial life supporting nutrient.
While too much sunlight can be harmful to your skin, the right balance can have mood lifting benefits, by increasing the brain’s release of the hormone Serotonin, boosting mood, and feelings of calm. Low levels may cause a higher risk of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), a form of depression triggered by changing seasons. Night light releases the hormone Melatonin, needed to help us sleep.
Sunlight benefits sufferers of non-seasonal depression, anxiety and premenstrual tension according to the Journal of Psychiatry & Neuroscience. UVB radiation in sunlight causes a person’s skin to create vitamin D for bone health, with low levels linked to bone-wasting diseases like osteoporosis.
Although excess sunlight can contribute to skin cancers, moderate amounts of sunlight has cancer preventive benefits. Areas with less daylight are more likely to have more people with a number of cancers than those who live with more sunlight hours according to a study from Environmental Health Perspectives.
According to the World Health Organization, sunlight can treat several skin conditions. psoriasis, eczema and acne.
Sunlight and Moderation
The World Health Organization, recommends getting 5 to 15 minutes of sunlight between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. when the sun’s rays are less direct, on your arms, hands, and face two to three times a week for vitamin D-boosting benefits of sunlight, but the sun must penetrate the skin — wearing sunscreen and/or clothing over the skin won’t result in vitamin D production. If you’re going to be outside for more than a brief 15-minute period, - protect your skin! Apply30+ sunblock, and wear protective hat and shirt, sunglasses.
Adding a little sunshine to your life by getting outside more can relieve anxiety and reduce depression, from treating skin conditions to strengthening bones, sunlight, has other health benefits as well.
http://www.healthline.com/health/:Written by Rachel Nall, RN, BSN, CCRN
Medically Reviewed by Mark R Laflamme, MD on 9 November 2015
IPL permanent hair reduction
As a consumer, what should you be looking for before you commit to permanent hair reduction?
Ask the questions - how qualified is the technician? What are his or her qualifications in IPL Permanent Hair Reduction? Does he or she have formal training as an accredited IPL/Laser Safety Officer’s Certificate from a Registered Training Organization in Australia? What type of IPL machine do they use? What are the specifications of that machine? Is it TGA Approved for use as a therapeutic good in Australia?
There has been controversy over the term ‘removal’. Removal implies all hair will be permanently removed. This is not usually the case, as some hair will remain (approx 20%). However remaining hair will often be lighter and finer. ‘Reduction’ as opposed to ‘removal’ is the preferred term by the TGA (Therapeutic Goods Administration).
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) is a long term hair reduction solution that can improve your self confidence and quality of life. Imagine not having to shave, tweeze, wax or experience the discomfort and inconvenience of electrolysis again...
In general, with less superior IPL machines, multiple treatments are required to achieve long-lasting results, whereas, our preferred system, the HarmonyLITE IPL offers results in fewer treatments and is able to treat larger areas - saving you time and money in the long term.
HarmonyLITE in Motion Pain Free Hair reduction is a state of the art procedure specially designed to eliminate unwanted hair faster, safely, relatively comfortably and with fewer visits than ever before. Its patented In-Motion technology, can treat even the most sensitive areas with unparalleled results.
Almost any part of the body can be treated including face, neck, legs, arm, nipples, underarms, bikini line, back, chest, and stomach, beard.
Permanent Hair reduction is one of the aesthetic medical industry’s most well-known and researched uses of light based energy.
Acne and congested skin
Acne, a common skin concern is categorised as either a cosmetic skin condition or a dermatologic skin disease, depending on the severity.
Acne more commonly affects adolescents though can affect some males and females well into adulthood
Acne is a blockage of the sebaceous gland with an inflammatory response. The sebaceous gland is a small gland located at the base of each hair follicle below the skin’s surface which secretes sebum, an oily substance, onto the surface of the skin – a vital part of the skin’s natural moisturising factor.
The cause of Acne involves three primary factors:
1.Androgenic (male) hormones which influence sebum produced by the sebaceous gland. Sebum binds together dead skin cells and debris from the skins surface, causing a blockage, creating a fertile environment for bacteria to grow.
2. Acne bacteria irritates the follicle and the oil gland causing inflammation.
3.Abnormal skin shedding within the follicle. Just as skin cells shed on the surface of the skin, they are also shed within the follicle
One or all three factors may influence the development of Acne. It is important when treating Acne to address all three factors.
Acne is characterised by:
Papules - small slightly raised lesion with minimal inflammation
Pustules - pus filled whitehead
Nodules - blind pimple often firm, hard, painful
Cysts - deep within the skin, unsightly, large, painful with significant inflammation which often becomes so large that it distends the follicle wall, causing a rupture, spilling its contents within the surrounding tissue deep within the skin. A cyst will often result in post Acne scarring.
Acne is graded into 4 levels according to its severity
Grade I and II with no to minimal inflammation, blackheads, some pustules.
Grades III - moderate to severe inflammatory - pustular, popular, nodular – prone to scarring if left untreated.
Grade IV – severely inflammatory, pustular, nodular, and cystic Acne, prone to scarring.
The cosmetic treatment of non-inflammatory Acne involves dermal therapies which address the three causal factors of Acne.
Therapeutic treatment of Acne grades III and IV should be provided by a medical doctor or dermatologist. Topical and/or oral treatments will be prescribed to address the causal factors. Dermal therapies can assist with the management of Grade III Acne in consultation with the doctor.
Post Acne Scarring
People that have had moderate to severe Acne will have some degree of post Acne scarring. The surrounding skin may fail to produce adequate collagen, the skin’s main structural protein, leaving a depression in the skin. This type of scarring includes pitted, pigmented scarring, leaving a brownish/purplish appearance, and ice pick scarring which often presents as deep enlarged pores.
Treatment of post Acne scarring involves resurfacing and/or stimulating collagen growth. Chemical peels, Skin Needling and minimally ablative fractional RF which will provide significant results. The type of treatment selected is always based on the extent of the post Acne scarring and the results the patient wishes to see
In the continuous search to find new treatments that defy all the rules, clients regularly ask me if there are any new dermal therapy treatments available. Perhaps a laser treatment or a peel treatment that will magically take 10 years of their appearance - with no downtime! Or, perhaps a skin tightening treatment that will make facelifts obsolete? Of course, we are all looking for the holy grail of aesthetic procedures.
Over the past decade or so, there has been a great deal of new technology released, often claiming to better previous technologies. Therapists can often get caught up in the excitement only to find at a later date that this new technology is no better than before. Marketing often drives these new releases due to a period of stagnation in the market. It’s an effective way to keep the consumer interested.
Looking back, there’s no doubt that my industry has come a long way but there have been very few revolutionary changes in both clinical aesthetics and medical aesthetics. Instead, we have gradually evolved into what we do today. For me, the biggest change has been in the formal education now available for professionals working in this field. We have access to the best and most up to date evidence-based treatments and modalities together with topical nutritional information.
However, I believe it is far more important a therapist focuses on what is important, i.e. the patient experience and the outcome, rather than the available technology. We need to use our technology as a tool and not be a slave to it. After all, a good photographer should focus on taking good pictures, not just buy the latest technology for the sake of it.
Using evidence-based dermal therapies in combination with formal clinical-based training (specific to the industry) while keeping skills and knowledge up to-date will bring the required results - not the technology alone. Treatments also need to be based on clinical evidence backed by science, published in reputable medical journals.
If you are currently considering contacting a dermal therapist, here are five traits that I would consider essential:-
1. Genuineness and honesty – Establishing a rapport with your therapist is imperative. It’s also important to feel that the therapist has your interests at heart at all times.
2. Sensitivity to the patient’s needs – A therapist should be aware of the vulnerability of certain clients when discussing skin health and appearance-related issues.
3. An eye for detail - An experienced dermal therapist should be able to determine what is healthy and functioning well and what isn’t.
4. Formal training – A therapist should possess the proper skills, formal training and knowledge to perform the treatment safely and effectively.
5. Good communication skills – A therapist should be able to correctly explain a particular procedure or treatment as well as its after-effects and outcomes. They should also be aware of and explain the risks inherent with any treatment.
With Australia’s ageing population becoming increasingly focused on not only feeling good but looking good, it is now more vital than ever that health professionals, including skin care professionals, remain at the forefront of preventative, integrative and anti-ageing medicine.
To this end, I recently attended the 10th Annual A5M Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine Conference held in Melbourne. Dedicated to advancing longevity science, medicine and technology to detect, prevent, and treat ageing-related diseases, A5M (of which I am a member) also promotes research into methods that slow the human ageing process and promote wellness into older age. This three day conference, which featured a number of different workshops, was delivered by both medical and non-medical experts who specialised in areas that include integrated medicine, aesthetic medicine, medical sciences and allied health sciences.
Discussions focused on:-
It was agreed that skin ageing is a natural process that may be aggravated by environmental factors, lifestyle and poor nutrition. It was also noted that the links between healthy lifestyle and healthy ageing, as well as internal and external health, are well established and increasingly researched in the scientific world.
Further discussions focused on the fact that traditional skincare strategies are concerned with only three elements; getting rid of dead skin, increasing cell turnover and building collagen structure. The belief is that these strategies have the potential to drive greater wellbeing when the nutritional depletion, hormonal imbalances, stress and lifestyle factors that cause these symptoms are considered and treated.
Recognising and treating metabolic imbalance, nutritional depletion and oxidative stress can have a major positive effect on a patient’s aesthetic appearance and wellbeing. So, analysing traditional skincare strategies, recognising the aesthetic signs and symptoms of metabolic imbalance and asking the right questions to discover nutritional depletion are critical elements that doctors, cosmetic surgeons and all allied health professionals need to focus on. This will provide patients with a deeper wellbeing, leaving them looking good and feeling good.
Following these five pillars of anti-ageing is recommended:-